I suddenly realised, looking back on my previous posts that I clean forgot to blog about an entire day in Copenhagen! I guess when you’re taking in SO much new stuff sometimes things slip your mind! This is a rather lengthy post but there are lost of photos!
Having spent all of Tuesday walking the city flat, I wasn’t all that keen for another epic hike and I really wanted to go and see Rosenborg Castle before leaving Copenhagen. Rosenborg is a tiny little castle built in 1606 as a summer house for the royal family. Over the years it evolved and became something of a ‘junk room’ where all of the accumulated trinkets, gifts, gilt and oddities were stored. Uniquely, the whole castle was converted into a museum and opened to the public as early as 1838. It’s still a museum today and your ticket will by you entry into the upper castle as well as the basement (not dungeons as I admonished by the ticket lady!) where they keep the official Royal Regalia and the crown jewels.
Rosenborg Castle
I did my usual trick of packing a lunch from the breakfast on offer and then off I went. The walk was not too far and the last bit was thorough a beautiful little park full of the most beautiful roses. I wished my Mom had been with me. She loves dog roses and would really have loved the gardens! There were also the most beautiful roses closer to the castle. Full of fuzzy bumblebees drunk on nectar, heedless of pollen.
Beautiful roses. And they smelt like roses should smell too.
Fuzzy Bumblebee
I was a little early so I got to enjoy the gardens in the beautiful sunshine before the museum opened. I got my ticket, including the special ticket that allowed me to take photographs. They have great lockers where you can lock up your extra gear and backpack and whatnot.
The museum is arrange in chronological order which is actually quite an informative way of doing things. Each room is styled and outfitted according to the fashion of the time (or the monarch of that era). Unfortunately some of the rooms were very dark and that coupled with the very bright sunshine outside meant that there was usually an awful glare off the display cases of the more interesting pieces!
It was also quite tricky to wait for the ebb and flow of people so that the rooms were mostly empty so I could get a good photo! This room had the most beautifully painted ceilings and a stunning gold clock built in the 1500s! Gorgeous.
Another really interesting room was the toilet. It was covered, floor to ceiling, with original Delft tiles.
The next room is called the Dark Room and connected the King & Queen’s bedchambers. Unsurprisingly it was damn difficult to get a photo (I didn’t have a tripod) but the ceiling was incredible! From the dark and gloom of the previous few rooms, stepping into the Marble Room was refreshing. Light and bright and whoa! Check that ceiling!!
All manner of cherubs and seraphim as well as coats of arms and ‘marble’ walls!
Cherubs on the ceiling
The Kings’ Chamber was next. The red and whiteish decoration on the walls is not paint, it’s a tapestry. Hand woven. Incredible.
Tapestry detail. If you look carefully you can see the threads
The castle has three floors, that was just the first!! Heading upstairs around the narrow spiral staircase, noting the absence of any ramps!
Stairs up to the next floor.
The next floor was much more of the same. If you are interested in reading more (and as this post is going to get rather long!) please go read here. I’ve pick a few of my favourite things from this floor.
An amazing guitar inlaid with tortoiseshell and ivory. More tapestries in the background. Frederik IV’s Hall (Clicky!)
Ivory figurine on a clock. This woman (and several other figures) adorned another amazing clock. She was only about 8-10cm tall but unbelievably detailed. Right down to individual strands of hair and the ruffles on her skirt. Breathtaking. Sadly I can’t find a link for more info!
Amber & Ivory Chandelier in Frederick V’s Cabinet (Clicky)
Finally up one more flight of spiralling stairs and into what was originally intended to be a ballroom but is now the throne room and is known as the Knight’s Hall. At one end is the Throne for Audience.
At the other end are the Thrones of Coronation, used in the coronation of all the absolute monarchs in Denmark. The Queens Coronation Throne was made in 1731 and was ordered by Queen Sophie Magdalene (who persuaded her husband to buy it despite the fact that the the family wasn’t exactly wealthy! She ordered her own crown too…)
Coronation Thrones (Queen on the right, King on the left)
The King’s throne is a bit older (1662) and it’s made of Unicorn Horn. Or that’s what the King claimed! In actual fact it’s narwhale tusk which is still pretty unique if you ask me! The thrones are guarded by three silver lions which are apparently based on the biblical stories of King Solomon.
Silver Lion
There are also three tiny rooms off the Hall which house portions of the Royal glass and porcelain collections. The Glass Cabinet holds a collection of glass presented by the city of Venice to Frederick IV in 1709. The room is protected from tourists by a bubble of perspex which is a nightmare to photograph through! This was the best shot I got:
Venetian Glass
There is a very similar room for the porcelain collection. Also very beautiful.
I then spiralled my way down and down again into the basement. That’s where all the really sparkly stuff is!
“Norwegian Lion” frigate ship carved in ivory
And finally onto the bit you’ve all been waiting for…the crowns and jewels! The detail in these pieces was just phenomenal. I can’t even begin to explain it! And for something that’s 516 years old it is in mint condition. Spectacular!
Detail of the lower edge of the crown
I wandered around a bit more before making my way outside. I collected my backpack and heading back into town. I wandered around near the Old Stock Exchange and ate my lunch and watched the bike and canal boats go by.
The Old Stock Exchange
I slowly meandered back home and had an afternoon nap before heading downstairs for delicious Belgian Leffe beer and some shrimp. A gorgeous way to end my last full day in Copenhagen.
Beer and shrimp
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